The capacitor I found had a shunt resistor already there, drains the cap in about 3 seconds. The resistor drains the capacitor after welding, otherwise the wire is still grounded and your ground clamp is still hot! Some guys on their conversion discharged the capacitor by touching the wire to the ground clamp expect a nice spark. Found a Siemens electrolytic cap rated at 40V and 47,000 uF for $25 delivered.Īnother important component is a shunt resistor across the two leads of the capacitor. I found a number of eBay sources for the rectifier rated at 1000V and 100A for $10. The videos I watched recommended a minimum 47,000 uF electrolytic capacitor with 30V minimum rating (welder outputs 28V). The capacitor smooths out the “hills” to a relatively straight line or DC output. The rectifier takes the sine wave AC and flips the negative wave to the positive side so the output looks like “hills” running from 0V to peak voltage and back down, then back up again. The two pieces of hardware needed are a full-wave rectifier and an electrolytic filter capacitor. I did a little web research, watched a few YouTube videos and found that it’s fairly easy to convert these units from AC to DC. All other HF wire feed welders are DC if that tells you anything. Current flows back & forth from the puddle to the wire which causes the flux-core wire to spatter even more than DC flux-core wire welding. Problem with the stock welder is it’s AC output, not DC. Penetration is poor and there is a lot of spatter. But as my dad constantly told me as a kid “you get what you pay for”.īottom line is the welds look terrible. They’re probably not a bad deal for the occasional weekend welding project, plus the 110V portability is nice. I have to admit to looking at them too, especially when they go on sale for under $90. Whoever mfd that piece of ****, and whatever vendors sell it, should be SUED for gross misrepresentation.ĭont buy this **** product, and anyone desperate enough to consider ANY sort of "repair", is (yeah I'll be callously honest here) STUPID!!ĭo not try to stick anything together that anybody needs to count on and far as functionality or ESPECIALLY SAFETY, buy some HUBBA BUBBA, and use that to stick your matrerial together, I doubt it would be any worse.I have a buddy who impulse bought a Harbor Freight 90A flux-core wire feed welder. In the end, I finished my little project up with my Duramax's alternators, jumper cables and a COAT HANGER!!īetter looking and better quality beads, decent penetration, smacked the piece pretty good a couple times with the shop hammer, and all held up. I grabbed the leads, dragged the thing over to the door (still plugged in and running), and threw the thing outside into the pouring rain.Īfter resetting my breaker, I called the unfortunate owner, explained my past 2 hours to him, told him Id replace it with a Hobart 110 (still, a hobby welder at best), I held out in front of myself about chest high, and twisted the last weld apart. I then placed the center of it on my thigh, one hand on either side, and pushed - two more beads popped loose. I got 1" of poor quality bead, hit the duty cycle, i could tell, because it wouldnt even feed correctly after that inch.ġ 1/2 hours later, what with letting this toy wanna be cool after every 1 inch worth of bead, I grabbed my work piece, tapped it on my table, and one bead let loose. I borrowed this **** wanna be welder from a buddy today, was in a bind and neaded 4 beads, each 2.5" long.Īfter working out the amps and speed (both ended up maxed out)adjusting the drive roller, I struck my arc on my 20 guage material. I've welded for over 20 years, using countless brands of varying quality, Why would anyone want to repair this thing.
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